Getting acquainted with Fairbanks, Alaska

We arrived at Rivers Edge RV Park and Campground, which had full service, including a lovely laundromat, but was quite uneven and RV's were placed extremely close together.  Norm and I have gotten very competent at leveling this RV with the nailed- together boards I persuaded the rental company to give us.  In fact, we like these so much we plan to build ourselves a set when we get home!

Travel in Alaska over the last month took us nearly 1300 miles

Norm and Dennis ran off to pick up the beautiful and comfy Kia Sorrento 4x4 we rented for the week.  I reserved this car back in December for the week, for the same as it would cost for a sub-compact for a single day if I had not, so it really is good to reserve things early.

  The weather was rather dismal as we all headed off to the  Morris Thompson Cultural Visitor’s Center.  We enjoyed the many displays as well as the film on Alaska’s history, nature and cultures. The young, but very informative workers there helped us plan the next few days.

Internet photo of one of the exhibits in the Visitor's Center

That night we walked to Chena’s Alaska Grill Restaurant right at the campground, and enjoyed the best meal of the trip, served by the most opinionated yet hilarious waitress we have ever encountered!

When one of us wanted to order the Seafood Chowder, this very robust waitress said “Oh, you don’t want that! I hate salmon with halibut!” She was so funny as we went down the menu – “Oh yeah, I had that – it’s pretty good- OK, you can get that!” or “No, you don’t want the dark beer – I don’t like dark beer!”   Was she sampling along the way? She strongly urged me not to get the salmon with the sauce I was interested in (she didn’t like that either) but I held my ground and it was fabulous.

 When asked for separate checks,she laughed and said “Oh, you’re so funny!” as she walked away.  About 20 minutes later she actually brought two checks which were totally incorrect.  When we brought it to her attention she waved her hand and said, “Yeah, I know.  Don’t worry about it. Just figure it out, and give each other cash!”  We all hooted with laughter.  We still do, when we think about it.

Everyone really enjoyed their meal here. Was it so good because of what she recommended? Does she judge culinary cook-offs in her spare time? Perhaps she should get “waitress of the year “and not get fired, after all! I must say, she does have a unique style you probably will not find anywhere else.

June 27th, 2016

Every time we mentioned to someone that we will be in Fairbanks, Alaska they ALWAYS say we HAVE to go to The University of Alaska Museum of the North. The modern exterior was said to have been inspired by the alpine ridges, glaciers, Yukon River and the northern lights, but unless you were really using your imagination it won’t jump out at you.

Internet photo of the architecturally beautiful University of Alaska Museum of the North. Inspired by the Alpine Ridges, the Yukon River and the Northern Lights. 

The exhibits at the University of Alaska Museum of the North were terrific!

 No imagination necessary for the inside, however.  The moment I walked in, I was in awe. Thousands of years of Alaskan art, culture and nature surround you.  Fabulous (although quite technical) educational movies were offered every hour about Dinosaurs, the Aurora or perhaps the Arctic Currents.

I couldn't resist this selfie! Convincing? 

 The Aurora Borealis is high on my bucket list, but after watching this movie with its incredible photography displaying one after the other, I actually think I might lower its priority on my list not that it isn’t breath-taking, but I saw so many on this huge screen that I almost feel as if I had been there. Norm has already seen it, so it’s not on his list at all.

See the Aurora Borealis on a huge screen in high definition was almost as good as being there! 

We roamed around the various exhibits for several hours then headed to the highly rated restaurant “The Cookie Jar”.  As we entered there were many photos of different celebrities including the infamous chef Guy Fieri seen on television’s Food Network. He was raving about this place, so our hopes were high.  The deserts as we passed them looked really good, anyway.  Well….we were all very disappointed. Chowders were so thick they were pasty, sandwiches overall were tasteless.  The gluten-free cookie I bought on the way out to share with Norm, however, was great!  I guess the name “Cookie Jar” fits!

Norm and Dennis went to the Fountainhead Auto Museum in Fairbanks, Alaska while Vikkie and I did a little shopping. 

From there the guys went to the auto museum, while we woman folk headed out to find some quality gift shops.  We must have been in the wrong part of town, but I did enjoy one shop that had some beautiful handcrafted things, but none were purchased.

We picked up the guys and went back to the campground to share a cooked meal together.

Norm and Dennis cooking outside the RV's one night in Fairbanks. Notice how close the RV's are at Rivers Edge RV Park and Campground.

Chena Hot Springs

The plan today was to go on the highly touted  Discovery Riverboat  tour but our being uncharacteristically impromptu did not work out.  Yeah, you know where this is going- it was sold out.  The same with a gold mine tour.

In the spirit of spontaneity, we made a last minute decision to drive to Chena Hot Springs and hike the Angel Rock Trail.  We quickly had our lunch, packed our hiking gear, dug out our bathing suits, and headed out.

A beautiful fork of the Chena River 

We started way down by the river

It was so long ago that I had researched this trail that I didn’t remember its details other than it was really nice, and something we should do.

What we found was that it was really nice and steep! It does not sound like much, but 900 feet of elevation gain in a mile feels like a lot! I’m sure age and physical conditioning has a lot to do with it, but man, I had to dig deep to get myself up that hill! I kept thinking of the amazing people on the reality show “Biggest Loser” who manage to do the toughest workouts, and thought “ if they can do it, I can do it”!

Well, I guess I was a little crazy scrambling up here, but it was calling me! Not bad for someone over 60 years old!

It was really a beautiful hike with fantastic views far below.  Norm and I were dying to climb the rock outcroppings at the top, but chose to be responsible adults and not take the risk. (It truly would have been quite risky). It would not be fair to the others to have to carry one of us down.

The view was great up here at 1750 feet for Norm and I . Yikes, we better not step back!

By the time we reached the car, all but Norm was whipped.  I was even considering going into the hot springs up the road, which I normally never would (or ever have).

When we arrived at Chena Hot Springs it was a little after 5PM, so we went to the activities desk and got the information we needed.

I am not sure if this old tractor was an antique, or a sculpture. 

  The springs were running hot today – between 108 – 115 degrees Fahrenheit.  Of course I had to ask about the germy-ness of this natural phenomenon that all sorts of people go into (including the group of flushed faced, very strangely tattooed 20-something year olds roaming around.)

I really can't keep from wondering how dirty this water is.....

We were told they drain the pool every couple of weeks – not to worry, it was going to be that night!  Ok, let me think here…… that means right now, it’s the “dirtiest” it gets? Hmmmm....  Well, the measly $15 charge for a day pass, combined with the weariness of my bones, I overcame my paranoia of a few nasty germs possibly getting somewhere unimaginable.


We had a hasty but delicious meal at their restaurant, then started our Chena Hot Springs experience. We first took a tour of the Aurora Ice Museum which was originally intended to be a hotel with all the rooms and furniture carved out of ice. After the malfunctioning of the hotel’s sprinkler system ( which ruined everything ) they decided it would be much more lucrative as a museum.

This "icy workshop" is where they make repairs and make new sculptures

Ice bar. Thankfully the bar stools are covered in fur

We were able to roam around the many rooms in the Ice Museum

One of many ice sculptures inside.  

 It was a balmy 38 degrees when we entered this unique building to observe the incredible ice sculptures. We were prepared to dress for the artic, but others were provided heavy coats.

 The first thing I noticed was the awesome “smell” of the dry, cold air which gave me an incredible yearning for a New England winter and was reminded again just how much I miss them.

They carve 12-15,000 of these annually. A woman took hers outside where I took the opportunity to take a picture of this cold glass. It was quickly melting.

Martini's don't get colder than this! Sipping one as we sit on an ice-carved chair in this ice house was really special!

After checking out all the icy bedrooms the best part was yet to come. An Apple Martini is served in one of the 12,000 to 15,000 iced glasses they carve a year.  I have been dreaming of this for months now, and it was every bit as good as I imagined it!

Interesting note:  They must check everyone’s ID in order to serve.  If, by chance, you are an Alaskan resident convicted with a  DUI ( driving under the influence ) you may not be able purchase alcohol in ANY store, restaurant or bar!  Your driver’s license will have a very distinct stripe on it.  Awesome!  It must be quite the deterrent.  I wish all states had that!

Now that we felt the cold, and were refreshed with the coldest of martinis, it was time for the main attraction – the Chena Hot springs.

Beautiful flowers encapsulated in ice blocks.  Amazing! 

We changed into our suits and headed down the ramp to the springs.  Now I enjoy our hot tub at about 104 degrees,(which most consider too hot) but I tell you, these springs felt capable of cooking a lobster! It felt good in a painful sort of way as we gingerly stepped into the water.  Yikes, it was hot!  What part of this is good for you?

With water temperatures at 115 degrees Fareinheight, Norm's internal body temp is probably reading medium-well by now.

After about 20 minutes we figured our internal organs were cooked to medium-rare, so we got out. I then discovered to my horror, that the key bracelet to my locker was gone! It had to be somewhere in this huge hot spring!

At this point we were all so darn weak from the hot spring, that we could hardly make it back to the locker room, much less get back in there and look for my missing key.

 Dennis, Norm and I mustered up enough strength and courage to enter that water again. It felt so much hotter than before! When we were all convinced we were going to actually DIE if we don’t get out of there, I went to the main desk ( leaning on the walls for support ) and discovered that not only would it cost $50 to replace it,and worse, they would have to clear out the woman’s locker room to do it! No one would be happy about that!

Refusing to waste money as well as inconvenience others,  I was determined to find my keys, However, when I stepped into the water yet again, I realized there was NO WAY I could do it. Yes, I would die, I was sure. ( I refuse to die in my bathing suit ). Luckily, a few more people had just entered the pool and were willing to help me look, and it was quickly found.  Thank God! Saved!

I staggered back to the showers, put the water on the coldest setting and eventually got the strength to dress.  Sort of. At that moment, underwear was over-rated.

We were such a pathetic bunch exiting the locker room, practically crawling to the nearby bench. Faces beat red, slumped on the bench we waited for Norm as he sauntered out looking like he took a stroll in the park! Yeah, Norm! He was the only one capable of driving the more than hour back to the campground.

A day of commercial tours in Fairbanks

All travel brochures seem to suggest that the Riverboat Discovery tour is the thing do in Fairbanks. In fact, their flier claims it is the best riverboat cruise in North America.  Cruise ships, Tour buses and RV Caravans all have them on their itinerary.  Norm and I will usually try to avoid anywhere crowds of tourists congregate, but we thought we would see what the hoopla’s all about, and this tour is rife with hoopla, in Norm and my opinion.

The Discovery Sternwheeler glides us down the Chena and 

The old-fashioned Riverboat traveled down the Chena River on a perfectly glorious day. Shortly after leaving the dock there was a bush plane that entertained us by flying overhead then landing and taking off in front of us (if you had the right seat, which Norm and I unfortunately did not).

With my zoom lens I could see the kennels of the late 4-time Iditarod winner Susan Butcher.

A short time later we saw along the shore, the kennels of the late 4- time Iditarod Champion, Susan Butcher where they gave us a brief demo of the dogs going around a track. Very interesting, but again we were sitting on the wrong side of the boat. (Why didn’t I ask which side was better? ) Perhaps it was because the brochures stated we were to "visit the home and kennels" so I didn't imagine it would be from the boat, much a couple of hundred yards away).

Down river another woman came out of her house as we approached her land. She spoke to us via a microphone about something Norm and I can not remember.

An Athatbascan native describes as well as demonstrates how fish were filleted,cured and hung to dry. Certain parts were fed to their dogs.

As we were boating by, they let out this small herd of reindeer for us to see right on cue.  Since they do this twice a day, they have this tour well orchestrated.  

Toward the end of the cruise we approached a Native Chena Indian Village where a young native woman demonstrated how they used to prepare and cure their fish.  Getting off the boat, we broke up into assigned groups of 15-20 people, and went to different stations where they described life as a Native Athabascan 10,000 years ago, and how they have adapted to Western life.

I felt so sorry for this girl posing in this beautiful native coat made of fur. With temperatures in the high 70's, she was really sweltering in this beautifully crafted garment designed for sub-zero weather.

The workmanship on this coat was astounding!

One would have to appreciate how well orchestrated this tour operation was, obviously hiring many people who own the land along the river, each of them offering something of interest. Even though it was a little too “commercial” for us, how could you not enjoy it on such a perfect day?

Fish set out to cure. I was amazed there were no flies.

We got off the boat about lunch time, and needed to get something to eat before we headed to another recommended tour called Gold Dredge 8, another National Historical Site. This was not on my radar, but Dennis heard about it, so we decided to go.

Upclose look at a section of the 800 mile Alyeska Pipeline. These pipes are 48 inches in diameter running from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez.

The construction of the pipeline was quite the engineering marvel. As we drove we saw it go over water, on one side of the road and then the other for hundreds of miles. 

This talented fellow had a penchant for Johnny Cash songs, and definitely the deep voice for it.

After lunch we hurried to make the tour, starting with a ride on the replica of the narrow gauge Tanana Valley railroad that would take us to an old gold-mining operation. As we boarded this open air box car, there was an older man entertaining us with his banjo and song.  Following him was a younger man who was quite interesting. He explained the history of the Alaskan Pipeline, it history, and how important financially it has been for the state of Alaska.

Described as either a floating workhorse or a mechanical goldpan, Gold Dredge 8 extracted millions of ounces of gold from the frozen Alaskan ground.

When we arrived at our destination, we were all herded into an area that had seating next to to rows of water troughs that could handle several hundred people. Given a bag of dirt, we were shown how to pan for gold.

This miner panned my gold for me, probably thinking that is what I wanted. After he uncovered a few flecks, I had to sit and watch everyone doing there own.  He stole my fun!!

I sat on the end and for some reason (perhaps I looked helpless) a couple of the guides took my plate to show how it was done. In the process, they stole all my fun! In a matter of seconds, they uncovered a few gold bits in the bottom of my pan!  That was nice, but hey – I wanted to do it myself!  UGHHHHH!!!!  I then sat and watched as people swirled their pans, dipped them in water and swirled some more.  Between the two of us, we discovered $24.00 worth of gold.  I purchased a $29 locket that they put it in.

Norm got pretty good at panning.  If things get bad, Norm could fall back on this.

Little flecks of gold Norman panned. $24.00 worth!

Of course I had to purchase a locket to put it in! Hmmm..... I think they know what they are doing!  I figured it was a cute little souvenir to represent the gold rush era.

We roamed around the area looking at exhibits and gift shops, and Norm wandered off and struck up an interesting conversation with the guy who panned my gold, who was an actual miner.

 He told Norm how he owns two claims, and had managed to put two kids through school with the proceeds.

Without even working his claims, ( some other people are doing the actual work )this guy put his two kids through college.

After a while our train arrived and we were herded back on board to return to the parking lot. We headed back to the campground, and called it a day.

In a local Fairbanks parking lot we saw a few RV's that were in such disrepair we were shocked they are allowed on the roads! Roof half off, windshield so broken it was a miracle it stays in, other windows boarded up, etc.

 I heard the Alcan Highway is pretty rough on vehicles, but could the above motorhome actually have started out earlier this summer as this 2015 model?Nahhhh.....!  

Leaving Fairbanks behind

Well, it’s time to leave Fairbanks and head south for the last leg of our trip.  First stop – North Pole!

I thought I might have a little “one on one” with Santa.  I suspect the last few years he forgot about me – I have been very, very good after all. Perhaps he didn’t receive my change of address? Is that why he hasn't come?

 North Pole, is actually a suburb of Fairbanks and is home to 2200 Alaskans “where the spirit of Christmas lasts all year long”.

 As we drove down the streets looking for the huge Santa statue that caught my eye on the internet, we noticed that all the streets are themed named: Kris Kringle, Mistletoe, Saint Nicholas Drive and even a road named Blitzen! Do the housewives that live on Mistletoe Ave. get a daily  kiss from the postmen?

Norm really could not understand my need to visit this place, and was grumbling each time I made him turn that big RV around and try yet another street.  I couldn’t understand how difficult it was to find Santa’s house among a handful of streets! I finally thought to put it on my GPS and it led us right to the tour- bus filled parking lot with the giant towering Santa waving at us!

This is Santa's House? When did he move to this run-down commercial building? It must be it, since we are in North Pole, so might as well go inside.

Hey! This run down commercial building is not the Santa’s home depicted in all the children’s books!

After the crushing weight of disappointment passed, we went inside. What? Has Santa himself truly had to resort to importing his gifts from China? Really? Where are the Elves? Looking around, we saw a large display of the expected – ornaments galore,( of which the majority are found in most gift shops throughout the state), the miscellaneous souvenirs, and the unexpected large selection of adorable tee shirts for the grand kids.

As we turned the corner of the shop we saw a lot of commotion and a long line of people (surprisingly mostly adults) waiting to see what I sincerely believe to be the REAL Santa Claus!  I circled around and around trying to get enough courage to actually sit on his lap and get a photo, when I saw our travel mates Vickie and Dennis already in line.  Well, decision made! If they can make a fool of themselves, we can too!

We were surprised Santa insisted we actually "sit" on his lap.  He must have very strong legs.

My new pal, Santa, thought If I looked shocked, the photo would be better. Sorry Santa, I am just no longer photogenic.

Dear Santa, he was so sweet and patient as he waited for people to check their cameras and see if the photo was to their liking.  Santa was so sweet to me, thinking a better angle or bigger smile was needed, but I am just not as photogenic as Norm.  I gave up the hope of a great photo due to utter embarrassment.

Having enough of Christmas in July, we headed south on the Richardson Highway toward Valdez. I was pretty excited to finally hit what was boasted to be one of the most beautiful roads in the United States. There were a few areas of interest along this 360 mile stretch of road, so I carefully monitored my many notes from various references including The Milepost, so we wouldn’t blast by them.  If it is not on the list, Norm is not great about stopping, and would never turn around to stop at a shop or gallery if we passed it.

I can't believe I didn't put what could have been the most interesting craft shop in the state on my itinerary sheet. The Knotty Shop just snuck up on us as we blasted by.  These mosquitoes were carved out of "knotty" wood. I am still angry Norm wouldn't turn around! ( internet photo )

The Trans-Alaska pipeline can be seen 40 feet above the Tanana River.  This pipeline river crossing is the 2nd longest, at 1200 feet. 

 Our next stop, at MI 275 ( mile marker ) was Rika’s Roadhouse, the centerpiece of Big Delta State Historic Park which served travelers from 1913 to 1947. It was one of the 37  Roadhouses conveniently placed 15 -20 miles apart  offering  meals, sleeping quarters and supplies to travelers. These Roadhouses are now proudly listed on the National Registry of Historic Places.

Internet photo of Rika's Roadhouse. Part of the National Registry of Historic Places. 

Internet photo ( I can't find mine )of Rika's Roadhouse. Notice the turf roof and the fabulous gardens.  Rika definitely had a green thumb!

Rika Wallen was a Swedish immigrant hired in 1917 to manage this Roadhouse.  In 1927 she purchased it for $10.00 and “other considerations” (presumed unpaid wages).  Rika was very industrious. She raised livestock including sheep for her yarn, and goats for milk and cheese as well as chickens and other foul for eggs as well as for food.  Rika was a talented farmer, and was able to grow fruit and vegetables where others could not.  She harvested grain by using a yoke of oxen, then developed a heating and ventilation system in her barn to allow her stock to survive the impossibly cold winters.  She obviously was a very strong, courageous and clever woman to not only survive but thrive in such a harsh environment dominated by men. Wow.

We walked around the various buildings but were disappointed the café was closed at the time. No ice cream for us today.

This area was so utterly beautiful I was near tears!

About a 1/2 mile more down the road I made Norm slam the brakes so I could get out.  Norm patiently waited while I looked and looked.  I didn't want to leave! The colors and textures combined with the clouds at the ridge.... wow!

Panoramic view of the area surrounding the Delta River

Our first BLM campground.

Norm had spent quite a bit of time researching a campground for tonight and found one operated by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Because they haven’t been in the areas of our past travels,we have never taken advantage of the 250 million acres our wonderful government has set aside for the pursuit of outdoor adventures. Now’s our chance!






This campground, with its huge lake glistening below was beautiful. We didn’t have a clue what we were supposed to do since there was no office,and Dennis and Vickie who were following us, disappeared.  We waited quite a while for them but when a half dozen campers  headed into the campground ahead of us, we felt it best to grab a site.

Trying to determine which sites were available and which not was a bit confusing.  After winding around the small roads we finally found a site that would not only fit us, but the Little’s as well! Since our shared Halibut was on the menu, it was important that we be close to each other.

Norm and I were told by another camper that we needed to go self-register up the road. It was at this point, more than a month into the trip, that we experienced the famed Alaskan mosquito swam!  Holy crap! They were EVERYWHERE!  Norm and I were still wearing our mosquito repellent clothing, and it appeared to be working, although the fact that there were clouds of them rather freaked me out.  I dabbed a little commercial repellent on my ears and hat which seemed to keep them at bay. I am not sure what Norm did, but he wasn't bothered either. The other camper got eaten alive.

Since there was no cell phone service in this remote area, we called the Little’s on my walkie-talkies and told them where we were.

Trying to avoid opening the RV’s doors more than absolutely necessary, ( didn’t want to let those biting insects in to feast on us all night) we enjoyed the Halibut that Dennis cooked.

After dinner the rain came down in torrents! We felt so sorry for the group of tent campers next to us.  In the morning we could see them all spreading out their tents and sleeping bags trying to dry them out. Oh, I love RV'ing!